From there, it's a simple process of adjusting the opacity on the images. My standard workflow is to do my basic edits in Lightroom, then to open the photos as layers in Photoshop. Multiple exposure can be done in camera on some cameras, but I usually do it in Photoshop. If you are combining frames, what is going to get blown out or close to blown out? Could you use the elements of one shot to frame a subject in another? Could you shoot an interesting pattern over the top of a portrait? These are the things to consider when doing multiple exposure. As a general rule, you would underexpose each shot by 50% if you were shooting twice, by 67% if you were shooting three times, etc. In the old days, this was done in camera with deliberate underexposure. When done twice, this is called double exposure, but you can do it more than twice. With film, the idea is to expose the frame to one scene, then, without advancing the film, expose it again to another. Multiple exposure is a classic photography technique that goes back to the film days. If you're not sure what angle to try, just try a bunch and see what you like! This can be an unflattering angle, but in this instance it makes for a nice little scene of fallen leaves. My example image was taken from directly overhead. Freezing the motion of water with a fast shutter speed or isolating one flower in a field of wildflowers with a wide aperture would be examples of settings choices that may break from your usual approach.įinally, consider creative angles when showing detail. Do you want to freeze or blur motion? Do you want to highlight one feature and let your background blur out, or should everything be in sharp focus? These questions are important to answer in any photography situation, but when conveying landscape detail you can make choices to show the detail in a way which the human eye does not perceive. You should really consider the use of shutter speed and aperture when you are photographing detail. Real inspiration can come from finding and sharing the small things in a place. Sometimes, the most compelling photo is not the grand vista, but the little element of the scene that no one noticed. From falling water, to leaves, to architectural detail, to plant and animal life, everything we see is detail upon detail. Give that ultra-wide angle lens a break! It's worked hard enough! The wide angle is our default as landscape photographers, but when we're trying to change it up, it can be a good idea to grab a longer lens and focus on capturing some detail. Capture Detail A scene of leaves was before my eyes Spending time seeing your surroundings for what they really are will only deepen your appreciation of nature and of the gifts that nature photography can bring. I hope you will try some of these techniques and let me know how they go for you in the comments. Taking some time to focus less on the traditional landscape and more on color, shape, and balance is great for your work. Regardless of how you feel about trying something different, I can tell you that getting out of your standard photography routine can shake some cobwebs loose that will help you do your primary style better. I happen to enjoy photo impressionism and the techniques that come with that genre. Some of these are more impressionistic than others. These are techniques that you can call on and practice when you're just not in the mood to set up that tripod, grab that wide angle lens, set your aperture to f/16, and capture the traditional landscape. In the course of this article, I will give you some unconventional landscape photography techniques. Should you even bother going? What could you possibly do that you haven't done before? Maybe you're just bored, or in a rut, or tired of imitating everyone else's work. Now, what do you do? Or, you are about to go to that nearby state park that you find yourself at a few times a month, and you've shot every vista in site half a dozen times. You got in the car at 4 A.M., drove 2 hours, and shot that amazing sunrise.
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